Luzern

So here I am, sitting in Luzern, Switzerland. Beautiful place - all around are snow-capped peaks and old buildings, although I'm currently seated in a rather odd, boxy building painted bright green, called Treibhaus, which translates literally to "Greenhouse" (har har). I'm doing my laundry for the first time on this tour, a welcome relief, as I'm currently on my last pair of underwear and socks. Obviously it's ok to double up from time to time when one is on tour, but 3 days is a no-go.

Since last posting, I have visited J. S. Bach's grave (followed by the bar Goethe used to frequent), played a small house concert in Berlin, played a show in Offenbach, and last night performed here in Switzerland.

Clearly, with time to kill in Leipzig, the band had no choice but to visit the church where Bach used to perform, and where his body was eventually moved, to be buried near to the altar. A fitting tribute, given how much of his life he spent in service to that church (and of course to people as a whole, but one wonders if he had even an inkling of the impact on all of western music that he was going to have). Not much to say on that topic, other than it's yet another item I can cross off my life list. After that, we walked around Leipzig, where our host pointed out places of interest, and their history. After leaving the city center, our host then took us to perhaps the single weirdest shop I have ever seen in my life. It was a very large warehouse just full every little old knick-knack that one can imagine. For instance: a room full of motorcycles; a room full of medical gear and taxidermy (including some random prosthetic limbs); room upon room of antiques, including a full-sized bellows for working in a forge; rooms of little assorted oddities, decorations, and the like; and so on and so forth. Definitely worth a visit.

After Leipzig we headed to Berlin for 2 days off, where we stayed with our booking agent Dennis, as we always do when in Berlin. While we were there, Dennis had the bright idea of hosting a last-minute house concert. While not too many people showed up, a man working at a small record label showed up, and randomly brought two of the people who were working for the man running the Haldern Pop Festival with him (who we had met when we played in Haldern). Definitely a good thing for us, as they got to see us perform again, this time a completely acoustic set. We also managed to get a rough sketch together of a new song, which means we can play it in a pinch, and mostly finished an arrangement of another, which has since been added to the set. Definitely time well spent. Plus, Berlin has the best falafel and shawarma of any place I've been, which we took great advantage of while there.

After Berlin, we drove to Offenbach. We got out late, and had some real hitches getting out of town, caused by a certain place we were planning on stopping to eat being closed, and having to get through a horribly snarled traffic circle twice while looking for food. Then on the way the weather turned downright nasty, which meant we ended up getting in quite late (entirely our fault). They had expected us earlier, and so the band who was supposed to open for us set up their gear and was sound checking when we got there, meaning we instead had to open for them. The place was pretty empty all night and everyone who came listened to both sets. Still, we resolved never to be late for something again on this tour, although I must admit when we drive to Italy and then 2 days later back to Germany, that is going to be a real challenge, as the drives are 8 and 9 hours, respectively. At least they are through the mountains most of the way.

Yesterday we came here to Luzern. The drive through South Germany was beautiful, and even moreso when we got into Switzerland, despite the rainy weather (a quick side note: we had pretty decent weather in England, and English weather most of the time so far in Europe. Sigh). The venue itself treated us quite well, as seems the norm for Switzerland. I think that most of the bigger venues here receive government money, and thus can afford to treat visiting bands very well, as well as pay them large sums of money (especially given the expected crowd size). The show went well and the sound was excellent, although it was somewhat poorly attended, as expected by the man who books this venue. Nevertheless, they loved our show and said they would absolutely love to have us back again. Afterwards, we all shotgunned beers (a new experience for me - ick) and then went out dancing. Swiss dance clubs have always been a good time thusfar, actually play excellent dance music, and I have yet to see more beautiful women anywhere. Hopefully we can keep coming back to this country.

Today we play a show in Schaffhausen, about an hour and a half north of here. Tomorrow is a day off there, and apparently the venue is putting us up free of charge. After that it's back up into Germany, and then to Italy for a pair of shows. The next week should be both interesting and picturesque, to be sure.

Priceless

http://beenlookingforthemagic.tumblr.com/post/1427157150/how-to-tour-in-a-band-or-whatever-by-thor-harris

Warning: strong language and picture of a naked viking looking dude.

That said, f-ing priceless and absolutely TRUE tour rules. We are planning to print these out and hang them in the van.

Poland - the day After (well, now technically two days)

So Poland was a blast. Not getting there, or getting back from there, but the show itself. To explain the journey, well it's simple - Poland is in the process of completely overhauling its highway system to prepare for the European football championship in 2012, as joint hosts with the Ukraine. This meant that the only route to Poznan from Berlin was under heavy construction, was at best one lane going both directions, and at one point was even reduced to one lane, period; given the fact that this was the only available road into Poland in that part of the country, you can well imagine what wonderfully horrendous lines of traffic were created. And going out was even worse.

But the show itself -

We were playing in a smallish venue in the heart of Poznan, the old city center (construction dating back to the 1500s or thereabouts). We got there a bit late due to the traffic, but the only person there was a bartender - the stage was still covered with sofas and tables. Eventually the sound people came, and after some nice Polish beer (always drink the local stuff on tour - you never know what you might be missing), had a productive (if long) sound check and a nice dinner. During the dinner, the person who booked the show admitted that we should not expect a large turnout, as it was a cold, rainy Sunday night. When we got back there was maybe 15 people there, so she told us to have a drink and wait around for some more people to hopefully turn up.

And turn up they did. By the time we took the stage, the vast majority of the seats in the house were filled, including all the seats on the bar. The crowd was very enthusiastic, and we ended up playing quite a few encores. That said, what was most interesting was that in the middle of our set, one of the bartenders approached the stage carrying a tray of shots of Cherry vodka. Honestly, that's unprecedented for me, and as far as I can tell for most folks in the band. And let me tell you, it's a pretty awesome feeling to raise your glasses and have an entire crowd do the same and all shout the traditional Polish toast, "Nostrovia!" This was to be repeated once more during the encores. This meant that by the time we got off the stage, everyone in the band had had 3-4 shots (depending on pre-show drinking) and a couple beers. Needless to say, the drinking continued (Polish vodka with lemon goes down WAY too easily), and by the time we finally headed to the hostel, the entire band was stumbling drunk. Also another first for us. We've definitely all been drunk together before, but not nearly to such an extent.

After enduring the insanity of the Polish traffic once more, we finally made our way to Leipzig. Here we played an all-acoustic set at a small cafe run by a friend of our booking agent. Apparently she likes to showcase bands once a month, and manages to attract a sizable crowd. Last night was no exception, and the little room was packed with about as many people as would fit (I'd say about40). Anyone who knows me knows that I love Emanuel's music, and for the record I think it potentially loses very little when put in an acoustic setting. What it perhaps lacks in intensity, it makes up for in sensitivity, as me and the other non-amplified instruments can actually do things like dynamics, and vary our textures far more. It's a COMPLETELY different sound, but no less effective.

Also notable is that before the show, the booker told us that if any of us wanted to play a solo, this would be a fine opportunity. I made it known that having the chance to perform a movement of Bach in Leipzig, Bach's home town, was a long-time dream of mine, and last night I finally got the chance, playing the prelude to the 3rd suite in C major during our encores. And let me say, the Leipzig folk LOVE their Bach.

Today we have a day off, during which we only have to travel to Berlin, where we'll be staying the night, tomorrow being a second day off. We plan to use a good bit of the time to polish off some songs for a new album we're working on, but also definitely to check out some of the Bach history here in Leipzig before hitting the road. Kind of like a pilgrimage.

And today, a new country - Poland

Internet access has been spotty at best, and I've spent my last 2 days in Berlin - not a place where I tend to spend much time sober. But here I am.

Since my last entry I've played five shows and three countries: Tilburg, NL; Duisburg, Haldern, and Berlin in Germany; and Copenhagen, Denmark.

Of Tilburg there isn't much to be said, except perhaps that the morning before driving there we walked around Gent, and it being All Saints Day, managed to witness part of an old-fashioned Catholic mass in Latin the Cathedral of St. Bavo, with a full choir and everything. What a privilege, to say the least. And of course, bought some Belgian chocolate. After that, we drove to Tilburg, where we were playing in the same venue as Joe Satriani (albeit in a MUCH smaller room). Needless to say, the place was busy, as he had brought two tour buses, but we certainly were not overlooked in the shuffle either (ie we had food and a room and such). Anyways, the sound wasn't great there and we had a small crowd, but still a good time. I mean, it WAS the Netherlands . . .

After Tilburg we drove to Duisburg, not more than 90 minutes away. Duisburg was one of my favorite venues from the last tour; they really treat you right, with good food, excellent beer (it IS a beer garden, afterall), friendly staff, and a top-notch sound guy. This time was no different. After the show, we went and stayed with the same person we had on the last trip, a real character named Christoph. I say he is a character because he can't go more than a week without having guests crashing at his place; apparently he has random people staying with him constantly, from bands to couch surfers. Never charges anyone a thing, just loves people I guess.

Our next show was in Haldern, and was billed to us by our booking agent as our most important show of the tour, despite the fact that it probably paid the least and was in the smallest town. This is because the owner of the venue where we played runs a music festival that is, apparently, one of the most important in Germany (or so we've heard from several sources). Not for its size, or for who it brings, but for the quality of music people have come to expect, and it's also apparently well attended by people from other festivals looking for new bands, as it tends to showcase excellent groups that no one has ever heard of. So apparently playing at his bar is an audition of sorts for his festival. Fortunately, we were up to the challenge, and gave the strongest set of the tour (having a real piano in house instead of our crappy electric keyboard really helped). Not sure if it will lead to anything, but he was clearly quite impressed. One just never knows in such situations.

The next day we made the long drive up the Danish peninsula and across an island to Copenhagen. What we found when we got there was a small club, an impossible parking situation on narrow and crowded streets, a sound system totally unsuited to our type of music, and an audience that seemed by and large not terribly interested in listening to us. It's also the night that our sampler, on its last legs already, was simply not working and finally put out of its misery in a violent fashion by our clearly frustrated drummer (it was his to begin with). RIP.

Copenhagen being a less than happy experience, we were glad to head to Berlin the following day. Then yesterday, after a night of drunken shenanigans, we played at the Deutches Theater, a place that hosts all kinds of different events. It was a good show, with excellent sound, and our hosts were very attentive to our every need, even asking us what drinks we'd like on stage (most opted for a double shot of whiskey on ice). We got to bed at around 5 AM, and here I am, writing before driving off to Poland. I've heard that the Vodka there is some of the best anywhere and cheap as hell. And hey, while I've been availing myself of the cultural vices of all the various countries I've been visiting, may as well tack on one more.

Gent (Ghent?)

So here I am writing from the beautiful Belgian city of Gent. Right out my window I can see the central tower of the Saint Bavo cathedral; I hope to get a closer look tomorrow (only an hour and a half to drive for our next show).

Last night we were in Hanover. It turned out to be a pretty good show. The crowd was smallish, but quite a few of them bought CDs. Plus, the venue hosts all-night parties on Saturdays, which myself and Emanuel, armed with a case of beer, decided to avail ourselves of. I finally stumbled back to the place we were staying at around 6 AM, quite thoroughly soused. And subsequently suffered my first hangover of the tour.

This morning after going back to the venue for breakfast (I love it when venues give you dinner AND breakfast), we then struck out for Gent. Emanuel hadn't gotten to bed himself until about 7 AM, and so spent the drive sleeping. The venue itself was fairly small with quite a cramped stage; nevertheless, the sound was quite good, both on stage and out in the house. So far, the only lousy sound we've had was on the first night, which, judging by our last tour, is to be expected over here. The show was actually quite packed, although judging by the very small amount of merch we sold and the small number of folks who came and spoke with us, people were more there for the venue than for us in particular. Still, it's always nice to play for a full house, no matter why they are there. Also, the French couple whose home we stayed at in Lille a few days ago was there; it was nice to be able to give them a taste of our full volume sound, as when we play their house it will likely be mostly acoustic.

So far I've moved through excellent British lagers, Czech pilseners, German dunkelweiss, and tonight of course Belgian white beer. Love it.

Hanover

Hello from Hanover.

I'm drinking a nice German Pilsener in the green room of a club in yet another artist-commune-seeming place, with a velociraptor out front made of machine parts. I've only had sporadic internet over the past few days, thus the distance between entries.

After Manchester we drove down to London, stopping en route (well, slightly out of our way) to pick up a replacement guitar amp. The drive to the amp was gorgeous, taking us through the north England countryside. I HAVE to vacation up there someday, when I have the money and time. It's kind of like Pennsylvania, but just a touch different, especially with the old stone buildings dotting the landscape. After picking up the amp, we drove down to London. The traffic was pretty horrendous, as London traffic is wont to be, but we eventually made our way to the venue, an old place called the Brixton Windmill (Brixton being the neighborhood it's in). The crowd wasn't large, but our press agent in the UK was there, and apparently she was able to get several journalists to come as well. Which is, of course, why one plays a large city like London.

After London we crossed the channel and drove to the city of Lille. We were originally going to Antwerp, but a few days before had been informed that the person we were to stay with had to do some last-minute work on her house and was unable to host us. It turns out that a few weeks ago our drummer had put out a message that we were looking for some more gigs to fill some space at the end of the tour, and a couple in Lille offered to throw us a house concert since they love our CD. And so when our housing in Antwerp fell through they also offered to put us up at their place instead. They were amazingly generous: fed us, wined us, and gave us the run of their apartment for the night (they went to stay with the man's sister). Before that night we were virtually complete strangers (minus a few e-mails) and yet they still left us alone in their nice place. Generosity and trust on that level is a rare thing.

We then journeyed to Hamburg, to play at an art/dance/music festival. The venue was quite nice, and quite large - certainly far too large for the somewhat small crowd. That said, the sound was excellent, and those people who were there were very enthusiastic, dancing and some of them even singing along. As much fun as it is to have a big crowd, an active one is even better, because then you really know why it is you're playing. After the show, we went out for drinks with the opening act, and made quite a late night of it, since Hanover is a mere 90 minutes drive away.

And that brings me to today. We still haven't gone to a currency exchange place, although lord knows we tried this morning, and so my spending is to this point almost nil (I think i owe eman five euros). The sound at this place is quite nice, and I'm looking forward to taking the stage. Hopefully some people come out.

European Tour Number 2, First Show

So, we just had our first show in Europe, and basically everything that could go wrong did. We were missing cables. Our guitar amp didn't work. The show was scheduled last-minute and thus very under-promoted, so there were only 20 people there (although given other problems that was probably a blessing). And the sound guy had NO idea how to work the system. Literally. It was so bad that after three songs of none of us being able to hear anything, we all unplugged, went down on the floor, and played and entirely acoustic set. We really had no choice, with four of the six of us basically playing deaf.

The up side was the hospitality. We've had a decent place to stay for two nights, some decent Chinese food, and plenty of good British beer, so no complaints on that end. Tomorrow we're going to pick up a new amp, and then drive to London for what we hope is the first "real" (ie plugged in) show of the tour. We're hoping all of the bugs were worked out this first night, but I guess we'll see.